Say "YES" to the dress???? Read this and find out if that dress is right for your alterations budget.

 
April 22, 2013
It's getting warmer and greener outside, and people are coming out of their winter doldrums, which means formal events are soon to follow. Oh yes folks, wedding/prom season is upon us once again. So here we are again with the latest installment of How to Spot Quality: The Bride/Prom Queen Edition.
One of the most common phrases we hear in the studio is "these alterations are costing almost as much as the dress!" Well if you got your dress for a bargain, there is often a reason... and many times that reason is what stands between you and a custom fitted garment. In order for clothing to be made cheaply, it must be made quickly, and on a massive scale.
This is not to say you need to spend a grand on a perfectly made-for-you dress every time you need to attend a formal event. There are, however, many immediate indicators for how expensive your alterations will be, and you can decide from there whether you really want the dress. Think of it as an emotional as well as a monetary investment, not unlike purchasing a new car. You want to check out all the features and quirks of the vehicle before you buy; you wouldn't just walk off the lot with the first flashy red sports car you see just because you look really good next it. You would want to know things like the MPG, how expensive the tires are to replace, and whether any parts are currently on recall, so you don't find yourself at the mechanic in two months giving over your vacation money to fix all those little unseen problems.
This same logic can be put toward a dress, and there are a few key things to keep in mind when considering your purchase (or your bridesmaids' purchase.)
CHIFFON
We all love the drape and flow of chiffon, but let me tell you it is a pain to hem, and it can quickly get expensive. The most prominent issue with chiffon is when it does something called "jump" after it has been hemmed. This often occurs overnight or in the hours between hemming and pickup, in cases when several inches have been trimmed off. With the weight of those trimmed inches off, the fabric can bounce back up or sag down in a different way than it was when the hem was marked, making an uneven hem. And then when the hem has been evened out after it has jumped, jumping can even occur again if the garment has not had enough time to hang undisturbed and properly get used to gravity at its new weight.
This is common because almost all floor length dresses made in a factory are purposely made several inches longer than even the tallest person would need, partially to ensure the dress will be floor length for anyone, but mostly because it is a lot faster and easier to indiscriminately cut hems without having to worry about whether they are straight or even. Which brings us to...
HEMS
How many hems are in your dress? Unless you are looking at an unlined sheath dress, you have at least two hems. If you have a chiffon overlay, tulle between your shell and lining, and/or multiple layers on your shell, those are all separate hems. If your dress hem is more than 75" around, that usually costs a little more. Chiffon hems can cost a little more as well, due to the issues described above. Just because it is one dress does not mean your seamstress is only taking it up once. Count your hems, and multiply your estimate by that many. And the opposite of hems are...
SEAMS
Do all your seams line up? Seriously, take a close look, because it is quite possible that they don't. Another common victim of factory-made garments are seams, especially at the points where several seams meet. If you have a patterned dress the likelihood that the seams will not match up increases tenfold. There is also a keen possibility that the side seams and/or waist seam are not even or in the same place on either side. If your seams do not match up in a way that flatters your body (and everyone is different; know what works on you and makes you feel beautiful) my recommendation is that you RUN AWAY. If the pattern doesn't match and it bothers you, there is nothing that will salvage that dress after you notice it. Run away!! You could almost get a custom garment with the amount of taking apart and remeasuring and putting back together differently that is required to fix an uneven seam on a formal garment, because it usually has so many...
LAYERS
How many layers are in your dress? your shell is one layer, but then you may have an overlay, and lining, maybe some interfacing, and likely some boning in the bodice. All of that has to be taken in evenly, and if there is boning that has to be removed and then stitched back in. Modern bodices have a good deal of structure to give the silhouette we all think of when we think "bridal" or "prom," and in order to have structure you need several layers to create the stiff skeleton and then put the softer decoration on top. And if that decoration includes...
JEWELS/BEADING
Now we're really cooking. I love sparkles as much as the next person, maybe even more. But if you find yourself falling in love with a beaded bodice, do absolutely everything in your power to ensure that you purchase one that fits. Taking in a jeweled or beaded bodice requires hand-stabilizing each bead along the new seam line, individually crushing the beads inside the new seam allowance, and often (though not always) taking in the entire seam by hand. Hand stitching is a specific and extremely time consuming (not to mention more physically demanding) art, so the more hand stitching is required, the higher the alteration price. Speaking of taking bodices in...
ZIPPER
Where is your zipper? Is it on the side or the back? If it is on the side and the bodice needs taking in, save yourself some grief and move on. It is impossible to take in a bodice with a side seam zipper without removing and repositioning the zipper, much to your wallet's chagrin.
Alright ladies (and gentlemen) when you are out shopping for a formal dress and you are looking for the perfect fit with the perfect price tag, please take this advice to heart. While it may be easy to buy a gorgeous dress off of the clearance rack, it is not always so easy (or cheap) to alter. If it's the dress of your dreams, we are happy to alter it for you, but if you don't want to be the next victim of "my-dress-cost-less-than-these-alterations!" syndrome, be prepared to pick up your garment and investigate it! Remember: chiffon, seams, hem, layers, jewels, and zippers! Good luck!!

Pinterest.com is a site I regularly browse for inspiration and ideas.  So when a new client brought me her jean shorts to alter, I was totally aware of the look she wanted having seen the idea on Pinterest.  Here is how it turned out !   We added lace to the right front and left side above the pocket.  She was thrilled with the results.  
 Bring me your ideas, and let me execute them for you.  A project like this is lots of fun!

June 2012

June 2012

Alterations are the largest sector of what makes up Katherine's Design and Alterations.  That being said, when I get a creative design project from a client, it confirms the reason the business was started in the first place, that is, as an outlet for creativity and joy.  
     This spring, a client brought me her mother's wedding gown to create an heirloom piece for her twin sons' baptism.  The expense of baptismal gowns prompted us to think of making a blanket for each son using parts from the original wedding gown.  The photo above is the finished product.  I was able to cut off all the lace from the gown and the veil to use on a white bridal satin left over from another job and backed it with a white flannel.  Using the lace I bordered each blanket with the veil lace and had only three inches to spare!  Whew!  I then used the lace that was on the organza sleeves and on the center front of the bodice to add on a diagonal, and used one of the satin ribbon ties on each blanket.  In order to differentiate one blanket from the other, I embroidered the child's name and baptismal date on the back flannel corner.  
    I received a phone call from the grandmother of the twins last week expressing her great satisfaction and joy at seeing the two blankets.  She said she received many compliments from her friends and relatives at what a wonderful idea to have the blankets made and the beautiful craftsmanship.  (her words, not mine)  

Embroidery on back side

  You would be amazed at the amount of time it took to design and construct them.  I thought it might take 1 1/2 to 2 hours each, but it ended up more like 4 hours each!  Definitely a labor of love for the art.  I hope you enjoy seeing them and that it prompts you to re-purpose something YOU have in your wardrobe!

Portland--a mecca for fashion fabric enthusiasts!

October 2011


I just got home from Portland, OR where I was attending the annual Association of Sewing and Design Professionals conference. While I was there, I took a class in advanced draping techniques that was so fast-paced I wasn't sure I could keep up. It was great fun to see how the couture designers achieve the looks they produce with all the twists and turns off the cloth. I look forward to our Wisconsin chapter meeting where I will demonstrate what I learned to those members who did not get to the conference. You all know, you learn more when you teach than when you learn it initially, right? We also took a bus tour of the major fabric stores in Portland. What a mecca for fashion fabric enthusiasts! We all thought we had died and gone to heaven. The quality and variety of fabric at price points we thought HAD to have been a mistake sent us into heightened elation.
Another class I took was called "Sew Much Style" by Nancy Nix-Rice. Nancy is a professional colorist and wardrobe consultant who was teaching us to "see" how color in your clothing affects how others perceive you. I was fortunate to get an appointment with Nancy the next day to do a full color analysis so when I did my fabric shopping, I would make choices that flattered my coloring. It was interesting to find I had several pieces along on the trip that, when combined with some new jewelry and some really cool, thin shoulder pads, several acquaintances remarked at how nice I looked! I was amazed that such small changes could make such a profound difference! I get so enthused at learning so many new things that I can put to use on my client work...so give me a call...let's see what we can design for YOU!

What to look for in choosing a designer or alteration specialist

Choosing a Sewing and Design Professional

When you contact an Association of Sewing and Design Professionals member, he or she will ask you about your project, time line, and budget. Your sewing pro will probably ask to see you in person to talk about your project before quoting a price. Some sewing pros charge a consultation fee, which may later be applied toward the cost of your project.

At your first meeting, be sure to ask questions! Association members welcome your questions about the type of work they do, their education and training, and how long they've been in business. Ask to see photos or samples of their work, and ask for references. Many members also have websites where you can learn more about them and view photos of their work.

For custom garments, you'll want to bring your design ideas with you to the initial consultation. Photos, sketches, sample garments and fabric swatches are all helpful. Your sewing pro may also invite you to email links to websites with designs you like so he or she can take a look at them before you meet in person.

Design details, fabrics, trims, pattern development, fitting issues, and anticipated sewing time all affect the price of a custom garment. Your sewing pro will explain the options available to you and then quote pricing according to the choices you've made. Custom garments are usually more expensive than ready-to-wear, but there are no additional alterations charges to factor in. Your custom garment will be the style, color and fit that flatters you best.

For alterations, you'll need to bring or wear the undergarments and shoes you plan to wear with the garment being altered. Pricing will depend on the work needed to improve the fit and the way the garment was originally constructed. Specialty alterations on garments such as wedding gowns may require more than one fitting.

from the website of the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals

                                                           July 2011

How to choose clothing that looks good on you!

7/16/2011

OK, when I go to a store, I am always looking for a bargain, but I get discouraged because bargain items are generally not found in my size. So then I look for ANYthing in my size. I might find 5 or 6 items, take them into the dressing room and 3 actually fit. How do I know if they look good on me?
How do YOU know what looks good on YOU? Do you take a friend you can trust who will be brutally honest with you? I have clients who purchase garments and then make an appointment with me because they know that I WILL be honest with them. That doesn't mean that they will always listen to what I say, but they WILL take my advice into account as they decide what to keep and what to return.
One client in particular really takes buying clothes seriously and does not want to make a mistake by buying something that does NOT look good on her, or cannot be altered to fit her well. She actually has had her husband take photos of her in her undergarments. She then traced around her body shape, hair and face, and took this tracing to her copy machine and made it a convenient size to fit in a small notebook for her purse. When she finds something she is interested in buying, she draws the outfit on her body and looks for balance, proportion and style. She then evaluates how it will fit in with the rest of this season's wardrobe, and makes an intelligent decision. Wow! The garments she brings to me have really been scrutinized and she has a BEAUTIFUL wardrobe of clothes.

Aladdin Costumes for Miss Leah's Dance Studio, Watertown, WI

Miss Leah's Dance Studio   April 2011

What fun to see my original costumes perform on-stage! The girls danced like the wind and the reviews from the girls and their parents on the fit, style, and value of the costumes were wonderful to hear. There were 8 girls, and no two were sized alike, so alas, I had to draft 8 different patterns! The most fun part was sourcing for the fabric. The harem pants were made from a royal blue with silver sparkles, and I used the same fabric in gold for the belts. The vest was a beautiful purple brocade with colorful butterflies woven into it. To top it all off, were some shimmering hair ties. I'd say they were lots of work, but most certainly one of my most fun projects this year! YAY for the fabulous job Miss Leah did in teaching these girls jazz and ballet!